Wire gauge

Wire gauge is a standardized scale for measuring how thick a wire is, most commonly using the American Wire Gauge, or AWG, system. The scale runs in reverse of what feels intuitive: a higher gauge number means a thinner wire, so 24 gauge wire is thinner than 18 gauge wire.

Different techniques call for different gauges. Thicker wire, in the 16 to 20 gauge range, holds its shape well and suits clasps, ear wires, and structural components. Thinner wire, in the 22 to 28 gauge range, bends easily by hand and suits wrapping around beads or making delicate loops. Temper matters too: dead soft wire bends easily, while half hard wire holds a shape better once formed.

When buying wire, check both the gauge and the temper, since two spools of the same gauge can behave very differently depending on hardness. A common mistake is grabbing whatever gauge is on hand rather than matching it to the job, which leads to earring hooks that bend out of shape or wrapped loops that feel flimsy.